FAQs
Sunshine Coast Lawn Coring can transform your lawn from dry to a lush lawn that the neighbours would love to have.
LAWN Aeration FAQ'S
Lawn Coring should be done when compacted soil is known and present,
Hard, difficult-to-penetrate soil: Compacted soil is often hard and difficult to penetrate with a shovel or garden fork.
Poor water drainage: Compacted soil may have poor water drainage and may remain wet for long periods of time after rain or watering.
Limited plant growth: Plants growing in compacted soil may have stunted growth or may not grow at all. Their roots may also appear stunted or restricted in growth.
Increased erosion: Soil erosion can increase on compacted soils as the compacted surface can not retain water or nutrients effectively.
Puddling or pooling: After rainfall, compacted soil may form puddles or pools of water that remain for long periods of time, leading to waterlogging.
Soil appears hard or dense: If the soil appears hard or dense, it is a sign that it may be compacted.
If you suspect that your soil is compacted, you can use a soil penetrometer or an auger to measure the soil density and depth of the compacted layer. Another way to check is by observing the root penetration of plants, which should be straight and deep in loose soil.
Yes, but it may need more the just coring.
I healthy lawn relies on consistency of mowing, water nutrition.
We can put you in the right direction to achieve your lawns goals.
We have the ability to do the smallest courtyards with machines that are capable to access small gates.
We also have various larger machines which provide our customers with large areas like acreage and sports fields.
No, however pets should be kept away during the process
Please ensure we have access available to the areas we are treating and clear of any obstacles , if you have sprinklers please have them flagged to ensure we know where they are while conducting the lawn coring process.
The Lawn coring will improve the ability for water absorption and nutrients uptake and roots air to breathe, with regular watering and fertilising you should see a improvement in a as short as a week!
Our machines are far from stock machines, providing larger diameter holes up to 22mm and tine weight exceeding from 65kg-95 kg per tine of down force. With the ability of pulling cores from 70-140mm long.
Typical hire machines are hired to you with the companies’ best interest in mind, Maintaince.
Hire machines have a lot lower tine weight under 45kg and smaller tine as narrow as 16-12mm resulting in inferior results and for compacted soils to the point of almost concrete, not doing any benefit at all.
Lawn coring is depth is dependent on the type of machine, how it works, its penetration weight per tine, as well as the resistance of compaction coming from your soil profile. If your lawn is really compacted, You can expect cores to be relatively short 10-20mm, if low compaction our machines can provide lawn cores from 70-140mm in length.
Depending on the level of lawn you have you have 3 options when taking care of the cores after lawn core aeration. First let them dry out if you’re going to use the lawn mower options!
- Rake them up and remove, you can also spread these of bare areas of lawn with regular watering will somewhat transplant the grass as the cores are full of leaf and root compound.
- Catch them with your rotary mower, this will pick up the cores and you can also remove them or spread them over bare patches of your lawn.
- Mulch them in with your rotary mower, the cores we pull up are full of good existing soil and nutrients, let them dry out and mow them back in for free topsoil.
As light as animals are, the amount of weight on their little paws running the same line in your yard will heavily increase compaction in that area, crushing the root zone, compacting the soil in that area, preventing grass to grow, this is a perfect example on how compaction occurs.
How often should I aerate my lawn? Compacted soils should be aerated regularly until the area is deemed well aerated, a highly aerated lawn is very easy to look after, as the roots are able to go deep,
Depending on the amount of grass present and weeds we need to control it can take a season or 2 of good maintenance, its best to get on top of all the problems with the lawn as we only have about 6 months a year to get as much as we can to recover prior to heading into winter where to lawn goes somewhat dormant.
LAWN Fertilisng FAQ'S
All applications of fertilizer have different life cycles, it’s important to get to know what you type you are using and how often it should be applied. Your lawn should always have food available and that will give you the best colour and nutrients to repair itself after intensive traffic.
What’s the difference between a cylinder mower and a rotary mower?
It all comes down to the final cut. The cylinder mower cuts grass like a pair of scissors, resulting in a very clean cut, which looks smooth, compared to a rotary blade spinning at high rpm cutting the grass at speed. It is important to keep your blades sharp when using a rotary mower so you get a clean cut, not a tear. A tear will result in damaged tips of the grass which will result in a brown appearance to the lawn a few days after.
It all comes down to the final cut. The cylinder mower cuts grass like a pair of scissors, resulting in a very clean cut, which looks smooth, compared to a rotary blade spinning at high rpm cutting the grass at speed. It is important to keep your blades sharp when using a rotary mower so you get a clean cut, not a tear. A tear will result in damaged tips of the grass which will result in a brown appearance to the lawn a few days after.
Pest and weed faq's
We recommend you allow the spray to dry prior to using the lawn area again, so keep the pets and everyone off it for at least a good hour.
Lawn grub is common for many lawns throughout Australia to receive every year; they can destroy thousands of dollars’ worth of turf in a matter of hours.
There are a few ways to know if you have lawn grub,
Lawn grubs come from the larvae stage of the white/brown moth they lay cacoons commonly under leaves and under the eaves of your house, on your outdoor fans and brickwork. This is a sure telltale sign they are a lot closer to home than you would like.
Each Egg mass produce usually 100-300 hungry caterpillars at only 1mm long which are extremely hard to see, as they grow in size the damage increased dramatically eating over 600sqm of turf in a single day.
When your lawn is beginning to die in patches and spreading fast, which is often them eating the root zone and top layer of grass dying off.
You will have blue and red wasps flying all around your lawn called the ichneumon wasp they will lay their eggs within the lawn grub with its larvae eventually eating the host.
It is also common to see them on the surface eating away and in plague proportions they will cover your fence walls, paths, end up in your pool.
Why do I have yellow cocoons under the eaves of my house and under the patio?
They are the egg sacks to a moth that produces lawn grubs in its larvae stage, it is best to brush them off with a broom, and hopefully is not too late for them to get into your turf. It is always important to stay protected and have grub prevention down if you’re worried about your turf.
LAWN RENOVATION FAQ'S
You may have noticed your lawn has a build-up of dead organic matter, excessive roots and stems that have developed within the profile of your grass. This is a natural process caused by your lawn producing more organic matter than what can be broken down. Some turf varieties will thatch more than others and overtime the height of your lawn can increase and can become quite unsightly.
Dethatching will help to remove this layer so that air and nutrients are able to reach your soil base and can more effectively feed your lawn. Reducing thatch also prevents water log in your roots and allows proper drainage, this will help to prevent the risk of fungal issues.
A lawn that is thick and spongy is due to a high thatch layer, the turf when it was installed use to be on the ground level and can eventually be 3-4” higher, with dead organics sitting between the healthy grass and the soil it is just creating problems for your lawn, and needs to be treated.
Depending on the amount of grass present and weeds we need to control it can take a season or 2 of good Maintaince, its best to get on top of all the problems with the lawn as we only have about 6 months a year to get as much as we can to recover prior to heading into winter where to lawn goes dormant.
Generally you will see some recovery from the Renovation within about 2 weeks for full recovery in less than 3 months, providing you with grass looking better than new turf. If there were areas of weeds prior these areas will take longer to recover.
Topdressing is a very labor intensive task, you may have thought to get a excavator in or bobcat to spread topsoil which is doing you more of a dis-service than doing it manually, we are trying to reduce compaction over your lawn so it’s best for manual methods using a wheel barrow or a top soil spreader with low ground weight be the best option when top soiling your yard, although its not the cheapest, your lawn will thank you.
It is recommended to top dress more frequently with a dusting over areas that need repair than large amounts at once as it will take longer for the grass to recover and higher chance of run off when rain is present due to the substrate in ability to stay where it is with minimal roots preventing the erosion
- Changing the soil profile
With Soils that are highly organic, it is best to top dress with a sand to increase the drainage effect on the lawn, With a soils that have high sand content which struggles to hold nutrients or water, a top dress mix of 50/50 sand soil or soil can be added for its nutrient and water retention properties. It is important to lawn core prior as this is a great time to introduce new material to the soil profile underneath. - Chasing a level lawn
If your soil has a great draining profile that holds nutrients and moisture well, it’s time to top dress and fill in the highs and lows, dusting sand regularly across the area is the best way to level a lawn instead of all at once Avoid layers of 10mm thick in one go. Dusting the lawn with sand is a perfect time after each mow; it only takes a wheel barrow or two, to brush into the grass and soil profile.